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  • Simple Steps


    In the last blog, I shared a simple tip that saves time and makes my shop safer. One thing I have noticed over the years is that small changes made regularly almost always  have greater impact than big, usually expensive and time consuming changes. and in that light, I share this next tip: Chalkboard paint. Yeah, I know, it's not about sanding disks or belts, but it is about helping you think efficiency.

    I referenced using chalkboard paint in my shop in a blog back in September 2014. I have since moved my shop, and one of the first things I did in the new space was added chalk boards. Some are painted door panels like before, some are simply plywood scraps painted and hung where convenient.

    2014-11-12 14.02.48


    I even painted a 4' by 8' section of the wall. I use this for my "cue cards" when shooting video. I can look past the camera and see the chalkboard without appearing to look away.

    At my age, my eyes are not what they used to be. Having chalkboards around lets me post cut lists I can read from across the room, or a place to doodle and work out designs.


    Ready to Decorate



    The chalkboard paint is available in a can for brushing on, and in spray cans for quick jobs. I have even sprayed it onto strips of painter's tape to make removable labels that can be written in chalk.

    None of this, of course, has much to do with our usual line of sanding supplies, but we figure that if we can help you pay attention to the small details that will save you time and money, you'll have more to spend when next you place a sandpaper order!


    We invite you to share your simple steps to more efficient work. You can comment here on this blog, on our Facebook page, or via Twitter

  • A Plug for Efficiency

    DSC_6335I am always looking for more efficiency in my shop. There is a lot to do and not a lot of time to do it, so anything I can adjust to save even a few seconds at a time is worth looking at, even if they are not directly related to sanding supplies.



    On my table saw for example: It came with a 12 foot cord. When I moved into my current shop, I had the electrician provide me with a 20 foot "pigtail" for the plug so I can set my saw anywhere in the shop. This has worked out as intended, but I found myself bending over all the time to unplug the saw when I moved it or changed blades. I change blades quite often, so this started to become a sore spot as well as a safety issue. There is always the temptation to swap blades without bothering to unplug.

    DSC_6336The other day it occurred to me that the 12 foot cord on the saw was not really needed with the long pigtail. I shortened the cord so that the male plug end is right at the switch. This makes it VERY fast and easy to unplug the saw whenever I need to without turning and bending. I just hang the disconnected pigtail on top of the switch box so I can plug right back in once the blades are changed.

    DSC_6337This is a very easy fix to a fairly minor problem that not only makes my work more efficient, but also safer and more enjoyable. There are a million ways you can improve your work environment and flow to save time and hassle as well. For example, you can sign into your account at and let your previous order history help you track what sanding supplies you have ordered in the past and track when you may need to order again! Not running out of a critical grit or belt is always more efficient!

    Feel free to share your solutions to minor inconveniences around your shop. You can comment here on the blog, on our Facebook Page, or on Twitter

  • Sanding Belt Block Sander Part 2

    DSC_6208Ok, so I am still not sure exactly what to call this thing, but that won't stop us from completing the project. In the last blog we chose the sanding belt we wanted to use for our block sander, and created the basic block to fit within the sanding belt. Now we need to create a tensioning system to insure that the block stays tight and straight even when the sanding belts may be slightly different lengths and as they stretch.

    BB Sander PartsI made one of these blocks some years back using a pair of long screws to set the tension. It worked ok, but I had to adjust the screws for each sanding belt I used, and if the belt stretched, the screws had to be adjusted again. This time I wanted a self-tensioning system. So at the hardware store I bought a length of 3/8" aluminum rod and a pair of 1/2" by 2" springs. I carefully marked and drilled two 1/2" holes in both of the sanding block ends, about 1/2" deep. These pockets will hold the springs in place. I then drilled a 3/8" diameter hole 2" deep in the center of each of these pockets. The 3/8" aluminum rods align the block halves while the springs provide the tension. I scuff sanded one end of each section of rod and epoxied them into  one of the block halves. The other end remains free to slide in and out of the block to allow for different sanding belt sizes.

    BB Sander InstallOnce the epoxy is cured, the springs are placed over the rods, the two block halves slid together, then compressed, and the belt sander belt is placed over the block. When released, the springs will keep the block tight inside the sanding belt during use. I use sanding blocks like this for all sorts of basic sanding tasks around the shop, especially for flush sanding parts and easing edges. One of these blocks can be used with several different grits of sanding belts, but they are cheap and easy enough to make one for each grit you typically use.

    This is but one more way to get more from the sanding supplies you have around your shop. We would love to see your solutions to odd sanding issues that you have come up with in your work. Feel free to comment here on the blog, on our Facebook page, or via Twitter.

  • Sanding Belt Block Sander?

    BB Sander FinishedSanding blocks come in all sorts of shapes, sizes and materials. In past issues of this blog we have shown methods for making custom sanding blocks from auto body filler to packing foam to a deck of playing cards. One type I have seen in use in most every shop I have been in consists of a wood block inside a sanding belt.


    Typically, these are pretty crude, just one or two pieces of wood cut to fit inside the belt, and some sort of wedge pressed in to tighten the fit. I have made and used these myself, but they rarely worked as well as desired. Mostly the problem stems from maintaining a tight fit. Sanding belts are made from a loop of cloth backed sand paper joined to itself with special tape forming a belt. So even belts made together as one size vary slightly in actual inside measurement. Sanding belts also do stretch over time and with use which is why all belt sanders have spring-loaded tensioning devices.


    BB Sander Pieces

    Ideally, the block to fit inside a sanding belt should also have a tensioning system, and we will show you how to do this with inexpensive materials. Our "sanding belt block sander" starts with a piece of 3/4" plywood or MDF, ripped to the width of the belt and cross cut to be about 1/2" shorter than the inside of the belt. This block is then cut in half to accept the tensioning system.


    I have made these before with a couple of bolts between the sanding block halves to adjust the overall length, but while it was an improvement over wedges, it was less than optimal. This design will use 3/8" aluminum rods with springs to keep the sanding belt under tension. The rods keep the block halves aligned and the springs apply tension.


    BB Sander DrillStart by marking the block halves on the mating faces, and drill two shallow 1/2" holes in each face. This step is really the only one that requires any accuracy, you need to insure that the holes line up as precisely as possible. Once the 1/2" holes are drilled, a 3/8" bit is used to drill deeper holes centered on the 1/2" ones, giving you 3/8" holes with a 1/2" counter bore.


    In Part 2, we will assemble the sanding block and cover details of getting the fit right. As always, we are interested in your thoughts and opinions of the information we provide. You may comment here on the blog, on our Facebook page, or via Twitter.

  • Abrasive Choices

    GritsWhile it might seem simple at first glance, choosing the proper sanding supplies for your application can actually be fairly complex. You need to decide the grits you will need, the backer that will perform best and even the type of abrasive used (usually a mineral) needs to be determined.

    In previous blog posts we have discussed grit standards used in classifying sanding supplies, the different types of backers available, and have posted several times on getting the best results with whatever sandpaper you are using. But a question came up recently about choosing the abrasive material in regard to the specific task at hand.


    uvs150615-001The issue was if the material being sanded should be a factor in the mineral used as the abrasive. For example, should a body shop finishing a car choose a different type of grit than a woodworker or someone restoring a fiberglass boat? And that discussion brought up the question of the finish desired. We know that wood being sanded in preparation for paint finishes with a different grit than wood to be stained. But should these choices of finish also help determine the mineral abrasive used as well?


    It turns out that the abrasive material that makes up your sandpaper can affect the sheen of finishes in wood and the surface of unfinished materials. For example, in our "Quality"  blog of August 2012, we explained how Garnet is relatively soft and is often favored by fine furniture makers. Aluminum Oxide is much harder. The particals tend to have very sharp edges, so they create well defined peaks and valleys in the scratch pattern. These sharp edges reflect light poorly making for a low sheen on the surface.

    80 Grit 150 Grit 220 Grit


















    Silicon Carbide, on the other hand, tends toward less angular particles so the peaks and valleys created are different, with sharp peaks and rounded valleys. This reflects more light, creating a finish with more gloss. Buffing compounds are often used as a final sanding finish reducing the sharpness of the peaks even more.

    Wet sanding is commonly used when working in metals, fiberglass, glass and plastics. It is less common in woodworking, but in any case, wet sanding requires using sanding sheets or sanding belts fabricated to stand up when wet. This will often limit your abrasive material choices. Garnet, for example, is virtually never available in a wet/dry sandpaper.

    We are really interested to hear your experiences and preferences when it comes to how you choose the sandpaper, sanding belts sanding disks or sanding rolls for the types of work you do. Feel free to share with us by commenting here on the blog, on our Facebook page, or via Twitter.


  • Several Sizes (of Sanding Belts) Don't Fit All

    Fortunately for our industry (not to mention our sanity) most commercial belt and drum sanders have become standardized so that they all take belts of standard sizes. But there are still a great many older sanders out there that require the odd sized belt. In addition, belt sanding is not exclusive to woodworking, and there are many sanders being used around the country that may use odd sized sanding belts which would be wildly expensive and difficult to replace. And some sanders, old and new, actually use sanding belts as part of their conveyor belt feed system.

    IMG_2786So, how does one source a custom sized sanding belt when needed? Well, of course, we at, can help. We can make custom sanding belts for you from 5” to 700” long,  3/8” to 54” wide, and in a variety of sanding grits and types of sanding abrasives. From the home page, click on the “Custom” button all the way over on the right of the header. This will take you to a page that explains everything you need to know to get your free quote to meet your specific needs.

    Need an extra long 3/4” wide belt for that gun stock sander? We got you covered. Got a great old stroke sander in the shop that needs a specific size? No need to replace a perfectly working sander just because it is non-standard. You can buy a LOT of custom sized sanding belts for the cost of buying, shipping and installing a new sander; and let's face it, most new sanders can’t compete with a well maintained piece of “old iron”.

    IMG_2785Nor are you limited to just custom belts. Oversized sanding rolls, and even sanding sheets, can be made to your order. Our friendly and knowledgeable staff is just a call away at 800-516-7621. Be sure to read through our custom page. It explains what your options are and how to determine the size sanding material you need to order.

    Please feel free to share your thoughts with us. We want to hear what you think about these projects we do, clever hacks you want to share, or whatever is on your mind. You can comment here on the blog, on our Facebook page, or via Twitter. And if you like these blogs, be sure to share them with friends and co-workers!

  • A Flap Over Sanding- Pt. 2


    While contemplating new ways to use the roll sandpaper we keep on hand for lathe work, we hit on the idea of making our own flap sanding wheels. In Part 1 of this series, we showed you how to layout and make the disk. In this post, we can finish it up.

    With the disk cut out, holes drilled and slots cut, the next step was to figure out how to hold the sanding strips securely while allowing for reasonably easy paper changes. Step one was to bevel all of the hole edges top and bottom with a countersink.

    Bevel Holes


    Really, the most difficult part of the design was to find the right method for holding the sandpaper. Since the holes are 3/8" and the roll sandpaper takes up space in the hole, 3/8" plugs were out, but 1/4" plugs were too small. 5/16" plugs might have been ideal, but a 5/16" plug cutter is not found in most shops. After much trial and error, the simplest solution was the best: Square pegs in the round holes!


    Inserting5/16" strips of scrap wood fit snugly enough to hold the sanding strips during use, but were fast and east to insert and remove! The square stock was ripped on the table saw then cross cut with a handsaw to about 3/4". I cut 4 inch long strips from the roll sandpaper, folded each in half around one of the square "pegs", and slipped this into one of the holes on the flap sanding disk. Look closely at the photo here and you can see that the square is positioned so that one of the corner points is aligned with the slot in the outer rim of the disk. This keeps things from rotating and provides the right amount of friction. You may need to make your square strips a little smaller or larger depending on the drill used, backer on the paper and such.

    Completed in DrillAll in all, you should find this a fun and very useful idea for around the shop. In the next post, we will explore some of that! We have even already gotten suggestions for uses we did not have in mind when we designed it!

    Please feel free to share your thoughts with us. We want to hear what you think about these projects we do, clever hacks you want to share, or whatever is on your mind. You can comment here on the blog, on our Facebook page, or via Twitter. And if you like these blogs, be sure to share them with friends and co-workers!


  • A Flap Over Sanding - Pt 1

    Completed in DrillIn a previous sanding supplies blog, we talked about how "sandpaper" is not just sheets and disks; that got me thinking about the 1" wide rolls, and how they can be used to solve finishing issues around the shop.

    Having just finished our series on making custom profile power sanding tools, I came up with the flap sander shown here. It works with hex shank quick-change adapters for the drill, is simple and inexpensive to make, and the flaps can be changed out quickly when needed.

    Disk TemplateThe body is a 4 inch disk of 3/4" plywood, cut out on the drill press using a circle cutter. This allows for making the disk whatever size wanted with a 1/4" hole perfectly centered on the circle. A second circle is scribed 3/8" in from the perimeter and the circle is divided into 22.5 degree segments as shown.

    Sixteen 3/8" diameter through holes are drilled as the anchor points for the sanding strips, and then slots are cut from the perimeter to the center of each hole at the band saw. These slots need to be just wide enough for two layers of the roll material.

    ShaftsA set of inexpensive hex-shank driver bits from the hardware store provide the mandrel that connects to the drill. The Phillips point is ground off and the shaft pressed (read hammered) into the center hole of the disk.

    Several different concepts were attempted for securing the strips of sanding material into the hub before hitting on an idea that was both simple and easy. We will cover that in the next edition of the blog. Meanwhile, you can order your roll sandpaper now and it will be in your hands when you are ready to complete your flap sander!

    Please feel free to share your thoughts with us. We want to hear what you think about these projects we do, clever hacks you want to share, or whatever is on your mind. You can comment here on the blog, on our Facebook page, or via Twitter. And if you like these blogs, be sure to share them with friends and co-workers!

  • Back(er) Story

    Over the years writing these sanding supply blogs, we have spent a pretty fair amount of time discussing the merits of different abrasives, the science behind grit choice, and even the variety of sanding disks, sanding beltssheetsand rolls that constitute sanding supplies as a group. But we have only really just touched on the backers that keep all the abrasives working together. There are a surprising number of backing materials that sanding products are made from, and various choices within each material. So let's examine the story "behind" your sanding supplies.

    Since sandpaper is virtually a generic term for all sanding supplies, we can logically start with paper backing. Paper is the most common material used as a backer because it is the least expensive and easiest to manufacture. But even the "simple" paper comes in 6 different weights (thicknesses) designated A through F from lightest to heaviest. Paper is a fine backer for many sanding tasks, but falls apart rapidly if wetted, and does not handle high stress or temperature well.

    Cloth is the second most common backer used. It may be cotton, polyester or rayon, and it too is designated by weight. But just to make thing difficult, cloth ratings are J,X,Y,T and M from light to heavy! Cloth is typically used for sanding belts or in roll form for drum sanders. The stresses and heat involved in belt sanding require a more sturdy backer than paper. From hand-held belt sanders to wide belt sanders, pretty much all of the belts are cloth. Cloth backers are a bit more water resistant than paper, but for wet sanding, other choices are made for the backer.

    Wet sanding uses water or other liquid lubricants to create a "slurry" that aids in the smoothing of a surface. It is typically used as a finish sanding technique for metals, plastics, fiberglass and the like, but we have also had good results using the technique on wood. Obviously, the backing for wet/dry sanding supplies would need to be waterproof. Plastic films, such as mylar, are common as a rubber impregnated layers of paper.

    Knowing the backers available, and choosing the best one for your sanding task, can improve your results and save you time and trouble. Lighter, more flexible backers are best for sanding odd shapes like profile moldings, while very stiff backers remove material more aggressively from flat surfaces. Sanding supplies may seem simple, but there is a surprising amount of science that goes into them!

    As ever, we invite you to share your thoughts and knowledge with us by commenting here on the blog, on our Facebook page, or via Twitter.

    And if you like these blogs, be sure to share them with friends and co-workers!






  • Not Just Disks and Sheets!

    For many people, sanding supplies are all about disks, sheets and belts, but abrasives come in many forms beyond those.

    For example, there are a number of drum type sanders on the market that require roll sandpaper of various sizes. Some brands require smooth back that is clipped onto the drum and others use hook and loop. Although these sander manufacturers sell rolls for their machines, they are not always the best value. Did you know for example, that a drum sander can use 3, 4 or 6" wide rolls interchangeably?

    Narrower rolls of paper are also available in 1-2 inch widths that are excellent for use at the lathe. Sanding a series of turned chair legs can use up a fair amount of paper rapidly, so having rolls of varying grits on hand can speed the process along quite well. Just tear off a strip you need and sand away! The narrow roll can conform quite well to beads, coves and other details

    And abrasive particles are not the last word in sanding supplies. Non-woven abrasive pads are a great option when cleaning up finishes between final coats, removing rust from cast iron table tops and smoothing fragile surfaces such as polyester castings.

    No matter the abrasive task you may have at hand, remember that what is hanging on the wall at the home center are not your only options. There are a great many varieties of supplies and should not be an afterthought. You put a lot of work into the task at hand, and your abrasives are another tool to be used. Choose the form as carefully as you would select the proper saw or router bit. It is not just about sheets, disks and belts.


    As ever, we invite you to share your thoughts and knowledge with us by commenting here on the blog, on our Facebook page, or via Twitter.

    And if you like these blogs, be sure to share them with friends and co-workers!

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